Pruning in summer and autumn, peach trees can adjust the angle of the tree, control the growth of branches, improve light conditions, promote fruit development and flower bud differentiation in the coming year, increase the nutrient storage of the tree, and increase the ability of overwintering and cold resistance. The number of pruning of peach trees in summer and autumn differs depending on the species, tree age, and tree vigor, and is generally 3-5 times.
The first time when the shoot is about 5 cm long. Infective buds without budding space, competitive buds, and opposing buds at the base of one-year-old shoots are all erased; only one bud or three buds sprouted on the same bud position is reserved (upright varieties go strong and stay weak Slant students, open-type species is the opposite).
The second time when the new shoot is 40--50 cm long. For upright fruit branches with a length of more than 40 cm, the heart was lightly picked and the growth was controlled. In the large space, the short branches were left with 4--5 buds, the branches were promoted, and the branches were cultivated; the competition branches were cut to the position of the auxiliary tip, and there was no auxiliary tip. When lightly picking up the heart, remove the dense branches and thin and weak branches, cut and cut the straight cut branches of the upright variety, remove the upright strong branches on the branches, and cultivate the appropriate auxiliary shoots in the middle and lower parts of the shoots. Adjust the angle of the main lateral branch.
The third time after the second trimming was performed one month later. The top shoots of the upright fruiting branches that have grown up after the last picking, leaving the following 1-2, cut off the upper ones; for the last time, the shoots of the leggy used in the previous control, except for the upper one, were topping; Fruit branches that have not yet stopped growing are all cut off by one-third or one-fourth; when the main branch grows too prosperous, select the appropriate secondary shoot head at 15-18 cm, and pay attention to stay 3 cm long when cutting. Protect the pile while picking up all the lower auxiliary tips.
The fourth time in the fall. The topping shoots and the main lateral branch extension shoots grown on the long-stemmed branches were picked up to enrich the flower buds and promote the aging of the shoots.
The fifth time before the new shoots stop growing. The focus is on cutting saplings and varieties that are susceptible to frost damage, and to cut off all parts of the main and auxiliary shoots that are not fully developed.
The first time when the shoot is about 5 cm long. Infective buds without budding space, competitive buds, and opposing buds at the base of one-year-old shoots are all erased; only one bud or three buds sprouted on the same bud position is reserved (upright varieties go strong and stay weak Slant students, open-type species is the opposite).
The second time when the new shoot is 40--50 cm long. For upright fruit branches with a length of more than 40 cm, the heart was lightly picked and the growth was controlled. In the large space, the short branches were left with 4--5 buds, the branches were promoted, and the branches were cultivated; the competition branches were cut to the position of the auxiliary tip, and there was no auxiliary tip. When lightly picking up the heart, remove the dense branches and thin and weak branches, cut and cut the straight cut branches of the upright variety, remove the upright strong branches on the branches, and cultivate the appropriate auxiliary shoots in the middle and lower parts of the shoots. Adjust the angle of the main lateral branch.
The third time after the second trimming was performed one month later. The top shoots of the upright fruiting branches that have grown up after the last picking, leaving the following 1-2, cut off the upper ones; for the last time, the shoots of the leggy used in the previous control, except for the upper one, were topping; Fruit branches that have not yet stopped growing are all cut off by one-third or one-fourth; when the main branch grows too prosperous, select the appropriate secondary shoot head at 15-18 cm, and pay attention to stay 3 cm long when cutting. Protect the pile while picking up all the lower auxiliary tips.
The fourth time in the fall. The topping shoots and the main lateral branch extension shoots grown on the long-stemmed branches were picked up to enrich the flower buds and promote the aging of the shoots.
The fifth time before the new shoots stop growing. The focus is on cutting saplings and varieties that are susceptible to frost damage, and to cut off all parts of the main and auxiliary shoots that are not fully developed.
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