Xiangyun yarn's original name is yarn and silk yarn is a combination of silk and silk, and Beijing is called yin. It is a kind of ancient plant dyeing fabric made by hand weaving and dyeing and finishing in Lingnan area. It has a history of more than 100 years. Due to its unique production technology, the quantity is scarce, the production time is long, the skill required is exquisite, and the clothing is smooth and smooth. , cool, sterilized, dewormed, has a health-care effect on the skin, because after wearing slowly peeling off the coating reveals a brown-yellow background in the past was called the form of soft gold. It is a silk fabric dyed with pure plants and minerals in the world textiles.
In 2008, due to social speculation, the original sunray dyeing and finishing process was dyed and dyed with silk and dyed silk into the second batch of state-level non-material cultural heritage sites approved by the State Council and approved by the Ministry of Culture. The original shampoo means that the product that the crepe has become all the sunburn is called a shampoo. Shunde Luncheng Chengyi Drying Co., Ltd. is a unit that protects the inheritance. The manager of this factory, Liang Zhu, won the title of Xiangyunsha National Intangible Cultural Heritage Representative Inheritor in 2009. Shunde Lunjiao is the heritage of this product's dyeing and finishing techniques. It has more than 500 years of history and traditional dyeing and finishing techniques. In 2009, Xiangyun yarn cultural heritage protection base “Guangdong Xiangyun Yarn Culture Industrial Park†was formally established in Lunjiao Street, Shunde District, Foshan City. Listed. In 2013, the “Geographic Signs of Xiangyun Yarn†was formally approved by the Guangdong Provincial Bureau of Quality and Technical Supervision.
Xiangyun yarn, also known as "Ring Yunsha", Yunsha, whose real name is "Chuangsha", is characterized by the use of mulberry silk soil as a raw material in weaving. The warp yarn is woven into a jacquard weave with a geometrical jacquard. White embryonic yarn, after weaving leno tissue and plain silk fabrics, is then soaked with the juice of Guangdong's endemic plant dioscorea (containing Ning and tannin) and sun-dried on the mature silk. A layer of yellow-brown gelatinous material adheres to the fabric, and is then covered with silt that is rich in various minerals in the Pearl River Delta region. After repeated drying, washing, and fermentation, the expensive yarn is processed. Silk products. Since the walking rustles, it was originally called the "ringing yarn." Old Shanghainese used their cigarettes to call them cigarettes. Later, they were known as the shroud in Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Guangdongese called it crepe.
Yarn silk finishing process (Sunburn)
1. The main raw material for crepe production
1 After scouring true and earthy silk.
2 Dioscorea cinnamomea, a perennially twisted vine, has a long, underground stem, a shape resembling a steamed breadhead, with purple-black appearance, brownish-red inside, and thorn on its stem surface. It is mainly produced in Guangdong, Guangxi, Hunan, and Zhejiang, and is home to Guangdong Zhaoqing Greenbucket. The quality in Longzhou, Guangxi is preferred. The tubers mainly contain tannins. The tubers of the yam pods are crushed, filtered, and then filtered for juice.
The white yarn of the silk yarn is twisted after being dried.
The white yarn of the silk yarn is twisted after being dried.
3 The Foshan area includes river mud in the South China Sea, Shunde, and Sanshui. It is better to use gray and black, but it is not sludge that has been contaminated by waste from domestic waste.
2. The choice of drying place
The drying area is a very important venue for the finishing of "Yasha Silk". A drying area can accommodate 160 silk (usually 18.5 m/m2) evenly on the grass for the sun. How much is the sun? Depending on the scale of production of tanning.
The surface of the sun must be flat, with mud bottom, top very fine sand, and then densely plant about 1 ~ 2 cm thick grass, requiring the grass can not be too soft, too soft can not stand the pressure of silk and silk疋 疋 细 细 细 接触 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故 故. The moistness of the world's fog and dew, so that silk has a certain humidity under high temperature exposure, easy to fully absorb the yam water, to achieve the effect of soft and glossy finished products. In addition, choose the sun should be close to the river with high quality river mud, then and later Silk washing. This is also a necessary condition for the selection of the drying plant site.
3. The main production equipment
The main production facilities include yam crushers, dip tanks, size casks, tubs, buckets for drying water, copper pots for cooking silk, dip sinks for dipping water, and sealing sinks for sealing water. Bamboo rafts, bamboo nails, cement for cementing, and water washing terminals.
4. Process, requirements and brief mechanism of drying
The entire drying process is very complicated. It is completed by manual operation. It is a heavy physical labor. Workers work day and night and are exposed to the sun. Usually from the beginning of April each year to the end of October for a year of drying. During the season, from July to early August (Summer of the lunar calendar, great heat, and autumn), due to the strong sunshine and high temperatures, the silk yarn will become hard and brittle, so it is not appropriate to start work. Resumption of work until mid-August to 10 At the end of the month, it was no longer suitable for drying in the north because of the dry north monsoon in the north after November.
The main process of drying:
Silk preparation → Dip water 1 → Sprinkle water 6 times → Seal water 6 times → Cooking silk 1 → Sealing water 12 times → Cooking silk 1 → Sealing water 1 time → Volume → River mud → Washing → Sealing the water once → Spreading the fog → Reeling → Checking the yardstick → Finished goods storage.
The processes in the above-mentioned processes, such as immersed cooking, washing, washing, etc., are very complicated. It is particularly important that each of these processes is dried in the grass on a flat basis. The main process requirements are as follows:
(1) Preparation of silk fabrics. Like general silk dyeing preparations, first, silk fabrics should be cut to a length of about 20 meters after entering the factory. Because the length of the crepe yarns usually requires 18.5 meters, it is easy for drying workers to perform one operation, and it is easy to cut the finished products. The two sets of cotton sew sew sew sew sleeves are designed to be easily inserted into the bamboo sash and pull the stencil; when the slivers are sew on both sides of the skein, it is convenient to sew and spread on the grass. The bamboo nails that have been nailed into the lawn according to the width requirements shall be laid on the turf so that the surface of the silk will be straight and evenly distributed.
(2) Dipping the water. Put a total of 40 to 50 pieces of prepared silk into the dipping sink, dip the silk surface with the thickest yams water (called “head over waterâ€), and continue to turn it by hand. It took half a day to drench and dilute the yam water. Put the ground yam in the bamboo cull and soak it in the first tank. The liquid juice obtained in the tank is called "two over waters", followed by "three over waters" and "four over waters" (also called slag waters). The various yam leaching waters are filtered and put into large wooden barrels for later use.
(3) Sunburn. Take out the silk in the drencher, dehydrate naturally, place it on the grass, face up and spread flat, and peg the nails into the bamboo nails on the grass so that the silk is flat and flat, without curling and sun exposure. To dry.
(4) Sprinkle water 6 times. After drying, use "two waters" to put into the bucket, sprinkle on the silk and immediately use the sunflower leaf broom to spread the juice on the surface of the silk evenly, if it is repeated 6 times.
(5) Sealing up water 6 times. After 6 times, the silkworms have become light brown. In order to make the yam sap penetrate into every interweaving point of the fabric, the silkworms are put away and put into special sealing gutters. With the "three water" yam water immersed in silk for 1 hour, and then exposed to the sun, if repeated six times, called sealing water.
(6) boiled silk. In order to make the scallops absorb the yam water evenly and prevent the interweaving (weaving) blockage, the silk stencil that has been sealed in water is placed in a large copper pot (not available in the iron pot, because the tannins contained in the yam wolfberry will Chemical changes occur with the iron in the iron pan. Use “three-pass water†to boil silk at a water temperature of about 45°C to 50°C for 4 to 5 minutes and keep turning it by hand so that it can be cooked thoroughly and silken. Body, then naturally dehydrated and dried.
(7) Seal the water 12 times, use "four water", operate the same as 5.
(8) Cooked silk, use "four over water", operate with 6.
(9) Seal the water once and use “four watersâ€, operate the same with 5, then roll the package into a cylinder. At this time, the silk has become a semi-finished product.
(10) Over river mud (commonly known as “Over Ukrainianâ€). This process is the key to drying, and it needs to be performed before sunrise. Firstly, the river mud is evenly stirred into a paste, and the surface of the river is laid flat on the clean concrete floor. Flatten the river mud on the silk surface, and then use a scraper to scrape the river mud, so that the river mud into a thin layer on the surface of the silk, and to the naked eye can not see the exposed bottom is better. After the uniform after the silk according to the central axis Lightly folded, and then by the operator's effort evenly and smoothly put the silk on the grass flat for half an hour to ensure that the river mud and yam full contact with the chemical reaction becomes black.
(11) Washing. The silk cloth after “Taiwu†shall be lifted and washed in the river estuary near the drying area. At this time, the sky has been lightened, and then we put the silk on the grass to dry in the weak morning sun. At this point, the silk surface has reached the black oily appearance.
(12) Sealing. The last time the water was sealed for 1 hour, the purpose was to make the silk surface more glossy, and the color was absorbed evenly. After sealing the water, it was flattened and dried on the grass.
(13) Spread the fog. After the continuous 20 to 30 hours exposure, the crepe has absorbed the yam juice sufficiently, but the silk feels harder. Therefore, it will be set aside in the grass after 6 o'clock in the evening. At this time, at this time, the sun has sunk and the grass roots have absorbed the geography of the water and moisten it to the grass. This also absorbs the moisture of the grass and softens it. This process takes about 40 minutes and is called “spraying fog.†The drying process has been completed here. The whole process takes about five days.
(14) Reel, yardstick, and entire library.
The current drying process is carried out by experienced operators, such as using about 100 kilograms of yam, adding 270 kilograms of water after smashing, and becoming the first time to dip the dripping water (head water), and later The concentration of yam water used in the sprinkle, seal, and cook process (two over water, three over water, and four over water) is completely controlled by the operator's experience, and it is adjusted according to the shade of the silk surface. The "quantity" value determines the proportion of water and water. If the number of drying and sealing of water is not determined in absolute terms, the experience of operating workers varies from day to day, from place to place, from place to place, and from person to person. .
Simple mechanism of drying: The main process of the drying process of "Changsha Silk" is the combination of silk fabrics, yams, and river mud, which react to each other and form a thin layer of black plastic on the fabric surface. The main reason is that the fibroin capsule polypeptide bonds in the silk fabric and the tannin phenolic group in the yam contained hydrogen bonding, forming a coating on the surface of the silk fabric; the mud in the river mud contains high-valent iron ions (Fe ) This trivalent iron salt reacts with the tannins in the yam to produce a black precipitate that accumulates on the surface of the satin. The sun, which is indispensable during the entire drying process, acts as a "catalyst." 3. The muddy grassland of Jinghe River is an indispensable four element in the production of sunburn.
"Cash Yarn Silk", which condenses many sweating workers in the south, has a traditional clothing material with a history of hundreds of years. It is unique on the earth except in the Pearl River Delta region of Guangdong.
The sunshade has been treated with modern industrial washing water on crepe products without the need of spreading fog, but the traditional crepe, due to the use of modern industrial washing, will have a large area of ​​falling coating surface, so the crepe must be finished using traditional techniques. The yam used for drying the crepe contains tannin, and the crepe is not washed. The finished product will be as good as raw Pu-erh tea. The yam will grow brighter, but the crepe is oyster Its packaging method can only be packaged, otherwise its silk surface will produce cracks after a long time of folding. Therefore, twisting yarn is more suitable for tailor-made clothes, consumers often wear clothes after they are done well, and use physical sweat to happen with them. Responsiveness makes it softer as you pass through it. The situation of cracking in crepe will also be lost. As the coating slowly falls off as it is worn, crepe will show a sense of the times like a treasure. Time's fabric.
At the time, the price of yam was about three times the price of the cotton cloth, which was the middle-to-high end product of that era. In ancient times, each piece of potato yam was sold in silver 12 and it was a relatively valuable textile product. In history, the crepe is gradually known as “soft gold†because it slowly peels off to reveal a brown-yellow background. But now, on this industry chain, people who produce "soft gold" do not earn much, and those who turn "soft gold" into clothing to sell get big profits. Due to the complexity of the weaving process of white embryos, even today weaving with motors, we can only woven fabrics of about 20 meters per day. At present, the price of Xiangyun yarn in the market is still very high, the price of one ton of silk is as high as 400,000 yuan, and is about 200 yuan per meter. After a garment is made, it is worth at least 1,000 yuan.
Nowadays, the market is generally a crepe fabric made from plain weaving fabrics. The price varies from brand to brand. In the early days of liberation, the shampoo yarns are generally three times more expensive than current crepe fabrics because of the expense involved in weaving crepe yarns. Time is three times the time for weaving crepe fabrics. In the years, no real crepe has been made. For example, real crepe yarn cannot be measured by money.
cleaning method
Below 30 degrees or cold water hand wash, wash with water can be appropriate, can also be appropriate to add "Jinfang" lotion or mild, alkaline wash solution, do not have to shade dry place. Skip floating color is normal. Silk yarn is the best summer apparel fabric. It is not sticky, cool and comfortable, and it is resistant to sun drying. Xiangyun yarn is most afraid of folding and twisting. Therefore, washing machines cannot be used when washing, nor can they be washed with a rubbing method, and can only be cleaned with a rubbing method. Wash shampoo clothing, can not use soap or alkaline detergent, preferably with water or a lighter neutral detergent to wash. When washing, wipe the perspiration on the clothes with a towel and cold water, or gently scrub the dirty area with a soft brush, then rinse with cold water, and then rinse with water.
Washing instructions
1, Do not scrub hard when washing (washing), otherwise it is easy to damage the bottom surface of the silk surface
2. During washing, strong washing products such as washing powder are strictly forbidden because the material is the same as human hair.
3, after the sweating of silk clothing to be washed immediately, should first add appropriate amount of silk washing solution in water or mild detergent such as shampoo, stir and then put into the clothes to be washed. Because the body's sweat contains salt and alkalinity, it should not be squeezed dry after washing, and should not be exposed to the sun, and it must be dry, otherwise the silk surface will be easy to yellow and affect the fastness.
4, do not hang the silk clothing on the hard metal hook to prevent the silk surface damage
5, when the silk clothing is not worn should not put mothballs, otherwise it is easy to embrittle
6, as the conditions permit, strongly recommended dry cleaning
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