First, propagation techniques
1. Cuttings
In the rainy season between May and June, young female tea trees are selected, and one-year-old branches are cut from the top, approximately 10 cm in length. The lower leaves are removed, and the cutting is prepared by making a slanted cut at the base while leaving one bud with two or three leaves at the top. These cuttings are then planted in river sand or gravel medium, inserted about one-third to two-thirds of their length. After planting, they are covered with a shade cloth, and foliar sprays are applied regularly to maintain high humidity, which promotes root development. To improve survival rates, the cuttings can be soaked in a solution of 50-100 ppm ABT rooting powder for 8-12 hours before planting.
2. Grafting
Choose vigorous seedlings or cuttings of tea varieties that are easy to establish as rootstocks. Cut the rootstock 4-5 cm above the ground, making a vertical split through the pith. Use 1-2 year old shoots as scions, leaving 1-2 leaves at the top. The base of the scion is cut into a wedge shape and inserted into the split on the rootstock. Ensure that both sides of the scion and rootstock are tightly joined, then secure with plastic tape. After grafting, cover the scion with a plastic bag and tie it with a strap, but not too tightly, to allow condensation inside the bag without dripping onto the rootstock. Place a paper cover over the plastic bag to protect it from direct sunlight.
3. Bud Insertion
For each bud insertion, retain one leaf and cut the branch at an angle, about 1.5 cm long. Insert the base of the bud into the growing medium, ensuring that the branch is fully covered. This method is efficient for mass propagation, as it makes full use of available branches.
1. Field Planting
1) Soil should be fertile and slightly acidic, with a pH of 5.5-6.0. 2) Planting time: Spring planting is typically done between February and March, while autumn planting after November also yields good results. 3) Fertilization: Camellias do not require heavy fertilization. Apply 2-4 times between October and November before flowering, and again 4-5 months after flowering. Use compound fertilizers, composts, and appropriate amounts of phosphate. The principle is to apply more frequently, especially to strong seedlings, while reducing or avoiding fertilizer for weak ones. 4) Pruning: Camellias grow slowly, so avoid severe pruning. Only remove diseased, crowded, weak, or leggy branches. For new seedlings, moderate trimming helps ensure survival. Removing buds is crucial—retain at most three buds per node, spaced appropriately to prevent excessive nutrient consumption and promote better flowering. Camellias can flower for up to six months, so removing spent blooms promptly reduces nutrient use and enhances plant vigor. 5) Pest and disease control: Common issues include brown spot, yellowing disease, and moss on branches, as well as pests like red spider mites, scale insects, moths, and rose beetles. Prevent these by spraying Bordeaux mixture before spring growth, followed by biweekly applications. Remove infected leaves and burn them. Yellowing disease is often due to lack of trace elements, which can be corrected using ferrous sulfate or magnesium sulfate solutions. Red spider mites and scale insects can be controlled with pine oil mixtures and improved ventilation. Moths and rose beetles can be treated with 40% omethoate diluted 400-155 times or 80% dichlorvos EC diluted 1000-1200 times. Regular weeding and garden cleaning help prevent infestations and enhance plant health. It’s recommended to weed 6-7 times a year.
2. Potted Plants
1) Soil: Use slightly acidic, loose, and fertile potting mix. A common ratio is 6 parts garden soil, 3 parts pine humus, and 1-2 parts sand. 2) Container selection: Choose clay pots, with the pot size matching the seedling. For example, a 40-50 cm tall plant needs a 20-25 cm wide pot. Zisha (purple clay) pots are preferred for commercial use, as they enhance the aesthetic appeal. 3) Seedling selection: Choose healthy plants with strong growth, a straight trunk, no stems, a beautiful crown, green leaves, and no signs of pests. 4) Watering: After planting, water thoroughly and keep the soil moist for the first two months. Maintain consistent moisture depending on climate conditions. Water more in spring to support growth, and in summer, water early morning and evening. Avoid waterlogging during the rainy season. In autumn, water promptly during dry spells, and in winter, water only during midday to avoid frost damage. 5) Light and temperature: Provide full sun in spring and rainy seasons, but provide shade in summer and fall. When temperatures drop below freezing, move plants indoors to protect them from cold. 6) Flowering control: Adjust flowering time by selecting appropriate varieties, controlling temperature, and using hormones. To delay flowering, choose late-blooming varieties and store them at 2-3°C. For early flowering, select early varieties such as "Small Pink" or "Snow Tower," and apply heavy fertilizers and hormone treatments. Stop growth in spring after flower buds form, then apply top dressing to encourage early growth. In mid-July or early August, apply 500-1000 ppm gibberellin to buds every three days. In September, repeat if needed, followed by watering to stimulate rapid blooming. This allows flowers to appear as early as late September to November.
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